April 26, 2008

The Curry Craze

Curry is rampant in the US now. It conquered the UK decades ago, and is now invading the country across the pond. Therefore everyone wants to cook Indian food now. Even Julia Child's old and seminal French cookbook Mastering the art of French Cooking had many dishes with curry powder. I have seen many Indian restaurants in Paris, in Amsterdam and even all over Germany. That means everyone is telling everyone else how to make Indian food. Including many first-generation Indians who are very proud at having found something they're better than the Westerners at. Indians have major complexes about Europeans and European-Americans and European-Australians.

Funny recipes
I find the recipes quite funny. Almost all recipes ask you to fry onion, garlic, ginger and chili peppers. And then they ask for adding tomatoes. And then they ask you to add turmeric, red chili powder, garam masala and cumin seeds. To everything you cook. They also stipulate you garnish with cilantro. Even spinach and other greens are garnished by cilantro. It makes no sense gastronomically or visually. This is also a bit of a joke because at least 50 percent of Indians do not eat garlic, and many don't like ginger. Very few Indian dishes have cumin seeds in them, and even when cumin seeds are present, they're the last addition. Well, maybe the second after the garam masala which is added just before serving.
Such recipes give the impression that the base of all Indian food is the same. I have read that in many places. All curries have the same base. Why do we have different curries then, I wonder. It's just a comforting thought that you have distilled the Indian cuisine with one base -- like summarizing French cuisine by béchamel sauce.

Please don't fry spices in oil
My pet peeve is with people recommending frying spices in oil. It is not at all canon, and very few home cooks in India other than the aspirational ones do it. You are not supposed to fry all the spices in oil. Roast some spices on a very hot plate, yes, occasionally, but fry in oil, never. It paints your walls with a yellow patina and, of course, smells awful. Sadly it makes the taste worse, as the aromatic compounds in spices are borne away with oil vapor before they get a chance to bond with the food. Frying a little too long can mar a dish.

Bad recipes
Some recipes are just plain bad. They have you use ricotta cheese to make Kulfi. Others ask you to use heavy cream and whip the hell out of it. That's ice cream, and not good ice cream, with far more volume taken up by air than by milk solids. To make kulfi, you have to slowly simmer milk, till it thickens enough to lightly coat a spoon. I feel sorry for those who ate ricotta cheese kulfi. I associate ricotta cheese with body-builders who want to eat a lot of protein. I can't imagine them eating kulfi.

Rachael Ray version of Indian food is alive and well
The Indian recipes floating around are like Rachael Ray's Turdy Minute Meals (Get it? Thir-ty Minute Meals) where a lot of ingredients are thrown in and massive busywork is shown to produce something that does not look pretty. And probably tastes even worse.

My recommendation
My approach to cooking Indian food or any kind of food really is simple. Use fresh ingredients. Do not overcook meat or vegetables. Remove the scum when you make a broth. Add spices at the end, after you are satisfied with the saltiness. Cilantro loses its flavor when it's boiled for even one minute. Don't overdo cilantro. And seek balance.

No comments: